Day 8 - Capitol Reef and Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
Time: 6am
Location: Moab, Ut
We were all up bright and early this morning for a 6am start. After a quick stop at the supermarket we got straight on the road and headed towards our first destination, Capitol Reef National Park which is situated in the heart of Utah’s canyon country, 8 miles from the town of Torrey in south-central Utah and easily accessible from State Route 24.
The map below (Figure 1) shows all the destinations and stop off points of the day.
Figure 1:
Figure 1:
Source: Ruby's Inn (n.d.)
Time: 08:50am
Location: Capitol Reef National Park, Ut
Although we were all shattered after a busy week and an equally busy day off yesterday (for most of us anyway!), we all managed to smile sweetly for a group photograph (Figure 2) and then wake up enough to appreciate the ‘rock art’ depicted on the rocks at Capitol Reef. The morning was sunny and pleasant.
Figure 2: Group shot at the entrance to Capital Reef National Park
The National Park was named by early settlers due to the resemblance some of the rock features have. The big, round rock domes found throughout the park reminded people of the United States Capitol Building and the rocky cliffs were named by former sailors who thought they made travel difficult and dangerous similar to ocean reefs. The name 'Capitol Reef' therefore comes from these two observations.
We observed rock art (or ‘Fremont Petroglyphs’ to use their correct name) along Highway 24. These are thought to have been left by the valley’s 1st settlers, the Fremont Indians, and is both a historical and spiritual legacy to them.
Figure 3: Anthropomorphic (human like figures) petroglyph
Figure 3: Anthropomorphic (human like figures) petroglyph
The rock consists of both painted pictographs and chipped petroglyths on the rock and we observed a series of anthropomorphic figures (Figure 3), writing, and mountain sheep drawings (Figure 4) depicted on the 'Petroglypth Panel' wall
Figure 4: Mountain sheep petroglyth
The rock art observed here today is a cultural resource as defined by the National Park Service since it is "importantly associated with the lives of persons nationally significant in the history of the United States, is exceptionally valuable for study of a period, style of method of construction and is likely to yield information of major scientific importance by revealing new cultures or by shedding light upon periods of occupation over large areas of the United States". (National Park Service, 2010)
The National Park therefore have an obligation to preserve and look after these Petroglyphs with fines of up to $10,000 and a year in prison for those who damage them, (Capitol Reef National Park, n.d.). Although this punishment is quite harsh, we feel it is a necessary detergent to stop people destroying a priceless cultural resource.
Time: 09:25am
Location: Visitor's Centre, Capitol Reef National Park
Following this we entered the visitor’s centre to watch a short video called ‘Watermark’ which gave a basic overview to the formation of the rock features at Capitol Reef. The powerful imagery and sound effects used, such as thunder and lightning made the video engaging.
The video put great emphasis on the fact that every landscape is the result of water and time. Landscapes, plants, animals and human life around Capitol Reef are all defined by water and since it is so scarce in this arid, desert region it has to be managed carefully and effectively.
Although we found this video interesting and informative we did notice a few parts that seemed a bit dubious. Firstly the mention of WW2 starting in 1941 was misleading (the USA joined in 1941 but the war actually started in 1939), and the suggestion that Butch Cassidy hid out in Capitol Reef with his gang is doubtful. Whilst this could well be true, all the National Parks we have visited so far encourage the idea that Cassidy hid in their park, and it is implausible for him to have hid out in them all!
In terms of physical geography the Waterpocket Fold, a giant buckle of vast warping rock stretching over 100 miles, is one of Capitol Reef's most important features. Many layers of horizontal sedimentary rock deposited by marine and desert environments hundreds of millions of years ago have been bent and flexed into huge folds as the upper layers of rock have eroded away.
The greatest danger to the Fremont people in Fruita were flash floods at Capitol Reef.
Time: 10:40am
Location: Picnic benches, Capitol Reef National Park
The whole group then engaged in a debate outside regarding the positive and negative impacts of adventure tourism in Moab, see Figure 5. The outcome was that adventure tourism causes more harm than good. We felt both sides were argued well and backed up with lots of positive and negative points from social, economic and environmental perspectives.
Figure 5: Part of the group engaging in a heated debate regarding adventure tourism in Moab
On completing another Junior Park Ranger challenge and being sworn in by Ranger Kate (Greg’s favourite ranger!) it was back to the minibuses for a long drive to Bryce Canyon National Park.
Time: 11:45am
Location: The minibus, Scenic Byway 12
Figure 6: Map to show location of Scenic Byway 12 in Utah
Figure 6: Map to show location of Scenic Byway 12 in Utah
Source: Rockies Guide (2006)
The majority of this drive was along the National Scenic Byway 12 which “is located in one of the most beautiful places on Earth” (National Scenic Byways Program, 2007). Figure 6 shows the location of Scenic Byway 12 stretching 124 miles from Torrey near Capitol Reef to the US 89 junction shortly after Bryce Canyon.
A National Scenic Byway is a road that has been recognised by the US Department of Transportation for its archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational or scenic qualities (National Scenic Byways Program, 2011) and is an example of resource management.
It was fairly obvious that Highway 12 has been recognised primarily for its natural and scenic qualities and this we believe, makes it a tourist destination in its own right. It is also a convenient connection between Capitol Reef, Escalante National Monument and Bryce Canyon National Park, all of which are popular geo-tourism destinations in southern Utah.
Whilst the view from the windows were breathtakingly amazing, many of us feel that it wasn’t much different from the fantastic scenery we have experienced from other roads earlier in the week. We did however feel that the contrast in environments was fascinating, from a Ponderosa Pine belt, sub alpine furs, arid desert, to snow capped mountain peaks (Figure 7) which made for a very enjoyable journey to Bryce Canyon National Park, our final stopping point of the day.
Figure 7: View of snow on Scenic Byway 12 near Dixie National Forest, Utah
Time: 3:05pm
Location: Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon National Park is relatively small compared with the other National Parks we have visited on this trip (just 145km2) and occupies the eastern edge of the Paunsaugunt Plateau.
As a group, we felt this National Park was very different to the others because of the unusual rock formations located here, a series of amphitheatre like structures carved into the limestone. There were ample features and landforms at this park relating to physical geography and geology which we found fascinating.
A rock feature we found particularly intriguing were the Hoodoos as we had never come across these before.
Hoodoos are erosional remnants that stand above the surrounding landscape and are pinnacle shaped pillars of eroded rock (figures 8 and 9). They are typically soft, sedimentary rocks that can be easily eroded but are being protected by an overlying resistant cap rock or boulder.
The Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon have formed due to alternating bands of hard and soft rock in horizontal formations which erode at different times and rates. Freeze thaw weathering also plays a crucial role in their formation as the continuous cycle of freezing and thawing widens cracks in the rocks and causes fragments to break away. Bryce's climate is ideal for hoodoo formation since it experiences freezing temperatures around 200 days a year. This explains why hoodoo formations are so plentiful at Bryce Canyon.
A rock feature we found particularly intriguing were the Hoodoos as we had never come across these before.
Hoodoos are erosional remnants that stand above the surrounding landscape and are pinnacle shaped pillars of eroded rock (figures 8 and 9). They are typically soft, sedimentary rocks that can be easily eroded but are being protected by an overlying resistant cap rock or boulder.
The Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon have formed due to alternating bands of hard and soft rock in horizontal formations which erode at different times and rates. Freeze thaw weathering also plays a crucial role in their formation as the continuous cycle of freezing and thawing widens cracks in the rocks and causes fragments to break away. Bryce's climate is ideal for hoodoo formation since it experiences freezing temperatures around 200 days a year. This explains why hoodoo formations are so plentiful at Bryce Canyon.
Figure 8: Hoodoos at Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
Figure 9: Looking down on hoodoos from the Navajo Loop Trail. Distinctive rock layers are visible behind the hoodoos.
The trail was very enjoyable as the scenery was like nothing we had ever seen before.
Bryce Canyon is clearly a place where tourism thrives. This is evident in the range of tourist facilities we observed here. The visitor centre offered the opportunity to watch a short film, look at informative exhibits and browse the large selection of books, maps and publications for sale.
Rangers offer a series of talks, evening programmes and guided walks in the summer and free shuttle buses to the most popular viewpoints, similar to that at the Grand Canyon. There are extensive opportunities for tent and RV camping in some of the park and a series of hotels and lodges just a 5 minute drive from Sunset Point including Bryce View Lodge where we are staying tonight.
The National Park Service manages Bryce Canyon as all national parks and considers it a natural resource since it is a site that possesses exceptional geological features; landforms and observable manifestations of geological processes. It was designated a National Monument on 8th June 1923 and a National Park on 15th September 1928 (National Park Service, 2006)
Conclusion
Overall today was an enjoyable day as it was nice to view different scenery both at the National Parks and whilst travelling, and we observed aspects from each of the key themes; Physical Geography, Tourism and Resource Management.
We feel that the most important thing we learnt today was about how water shapes and creates landforms and is crucial to explain geological and geographical processes. The most interesting thing however was seeing the Hoodoos and beginning to understand how and why they are formed.
References
Capitol Reef National Park (n.d.) Junior Ranger Activity Book. Torrey, Ut: National Park Service
National Park Service (2006) Bryce Canyon: Management. Available from: http://www.nps.gov/brca/parkmgmt/index.htm
National Park Service (2010) Bryce Canyon: Directions. Available from: http://www.nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/directions.htm
National Scenic Byways Program (2007) A Flurry of Feathers on Scenic Byway 12. Available from: http://www.byways.org/stories/72549
National Scenic Byways Program (2011) Fact sheet for the National Scenic Byways Program. Available from: http://www.byways.org/press/pdf/fact_sheet.pdf
Rockies Guide (2006) Highway 12 Scenic Byway Maps. Available from: http://www.rockiesguide.com/guide/rocky_mountains/highway_12_maps.html
Ruby's Inn (n.d.) Ruby's Inn Locator Map. Available from: http://www.rubysinn.com/map.html
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